Having just bought the new Razer Lycosa keyboard, I unfortunately ran into the same problems as many others did. For me the shift and backspace-keys only worked occasionally and the backlight was considerably darker in the center of the keyboard. Placing a coin on the Razer-mediakey seemed to help, but now I was unable to use any other media buttons, or the Windows-key, and one of the reasons I bought this particular keyboard (besides its awesome feeling :D) were the mediakeys.
With the store having closed and me not wanting to return it, I read from someone who claimed that he just opened his keyboard und tinkered a bit with the plugs inside, which fixed his Lycosa. So I gave it a try – and it worked! I’ve taken some photos while working and will try to recount every step I made, so you can fix your keyboard too. The actual problem seems to be a screw that prevents the touchpad-plug to fully connect to the main chip board, which screws up some major functions like sending input “signals” longer than a few milliseconds.

Backlight problems

Update [11. July]: It seems like Razor finally realized, that many of their keyboards have this problem and offer replacements now. To quote one of the comment authors:

There is no need to ship our Lycosas back: it looks like the Razer team is replacing every keyboard just after veryfing yours is one of the ~not properly working~ Lycosas. I just got their answer:

“We have verified that your Lycosa is one of the units affected by the known issues. We apologize for the trouble you have had with the Razer Lycosa and the inconvenience this has caused you. We have made arrangements for a new Lycosa to be sent to your address. ”

Good for us!


Disclaimer: This fix does not guarantee anything, your keyboard might return to the bugged state after a few days. The cause of all the malfunctions is a plug inside the keyboard that might lose it’s connection, because of how the whole Lycosa is built. You can come up with your own ideas, for example solder every pin to the main circuit-board, or try my solution. Fortunately, you don’t have to break any warranty seals / stickers when opening the case. So you could give it a try and if it still does not work, you can return it to the store.

Step 1

Step 1

Unplug your keyboard, turn it around and remove all 19 screws. Seems like Razer build their keyboards to resist even a nuclear strike. ;) Once you have removed all the marked screws, pull off the palm rest and put it aside.

Step 2

Step 2

Carefully remove the backplate of your keyboard and put it aside. Now unscrew and remove the next 9 screws which are marked in the photo. After that, unplug the LED power connector (red arrow). Try not to mix those second screws with the ones from step 1, as they are different.

Step 3

Step 3

Peel away the silvery tape from the main circuit board. Don’t worry if it rips, as long as you can still connect it to the board. After that, remove the white backpane.

Step 4

Step 4

Now we can take a look at the mischievous screw… It blocks the whole circuit board from being pushed down and the touchpad plug from connecting fully. The screw itself is just fine, but unfortunately the plug at the left can lose the connection because of it!

Step 5

Step 5

Here comes the critical part: carefully unplug the upper circuit board and remove the evil screw of doom. As it’s one of 4 supporting screws of a touchpad (and not a hammerpad) it won’t be missed.

Step 6

Step 6

Now put the white backpane back onto the keyboard and tightly connect the upper circuit board to the touchpad. At that point, the key problems should be gone. To make sure that everything works, plug in your keyboard and power up your computer. Make sure that everything now works like it should, before you move on to the next step. If it still bugs, you didn’t connect it thoroughly.

Step 7 (optional)

Step 7

If your back-lit keys were too dark around the center of the keyboard, turn around the whole inside and check the board for any dark spots. If you don’t find any (like in the photo), the darker keys in the center are probably a result of too tight screws.

Step 8

Step 8

Put everything together. Don’t forget the silver tape, you have to reconnect it to the edge of the circuit board. Before you close the chassis, once again make sure everything works fine. After that, add the screws in groups of 3 or 4, constantly rechecking the functionality of your keyboard. I had to screw them in twice, because after the first time they backlight became darker if I closed the chassis.


If you did everything right, your keyboard should be fully operational, all the keys working. You should even be able to press Ctrl + V with capslock on. ;) I hope my little guide helped you fix this otherwise great keyboard. If you have any questions, use the comment function under this post!

 
RSS TRACKBACK 124 Kommentare »
  1. I’m having the exact same problems as you. And like yourself I can’t be bothered to send the keyboard back only to receive another one with the same problems!

    I feel confident enough to open the keyboard up and perform the steps above, but I notice that you posted this fix only 4 days ago. Are the problems still resolved? Everything still working OK?

    Also – when you say that the dull keys in the centre of the keyboard are a result of the screws being too tight, which screws exactly? The ones holding the white backpane in place or the ones that hold the entire case together?

    The CAPSLOCK issue is irritating but I was really disappointed with the dull keys – mine are like yours were, very dim in the centre of the key layout.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

    Fleesh.

    Comment by Fleesh — 13. März 2008 @ 06:29:50

  2. Hi Fleesh,
    after 4 days of regular usage, everything still works fine. :) None of the problems returned.
    They backlight for the center keys comes from 2 small LEDs at the bottom of the white pane (check the photo from step 7) and it seems like the 2 lower center screws of the chassis (not the backpane) sometines bend / push the LEDs away from the white backpane. So you have to be careful when closing the case and when you apply those 2 screws.

    Comment by Steffen — 13. März 2008 @ 15:52:58

  3. Hi Steffen,
    Just completed the procedure and it appears to have been a success!

    The Shift and Backspace keys seem to be working properly now and the backlighting is consistently bright throughout the keyboard. I can now actually see all of the keys properly as I type you this message!

    I saw what you meant about the small LED’s at the bottom of the white backplate – the two in the middle weren’t seated properly just like yours. Now they’re seated correctly and all the keys light up to the same degree. Sweet!

    Excellent little guide m8, thank you SO much for posting it. I’m well pleased with the Lycosa now!

    Thanks again dude!

    Comment by Fleesh — 13. März 2008 @ 19:10:29

  4. Hey, first i just wanted to say very nice guide. I just received my lycosa two days ago and im having problems that i havent heard anyone else talk about before. I have no lighting problems, even lighting across the board and no random flickering of lights. But after some time of using the keyboard (sometimes instantly) and sometimes it doest start for a half hour and sometimes it doesn’t do this at all. I will be typing and all of a sudden a key will stop working. like the ‘e’ key will stop working but all other keys work. then randomly it will start working but at the same time, a different key will stop working. If i continue typing, more keys stop working. One of the keys that has always stopped when this happens is the backspace key. being frustrated i would wipe my hand across the board pressing all the keys and then all the keys would stop working except for maybe a random couple keys. everything is fixed if i simply unplug usb port and replug, but shortly. the problems begin to arise again. since i just bought it i could simply return it but i feel in love with the feel of this board and i worry of having the same problem with the same board. So i dont want to take apart if and void warranty if this fix wouldnt fix my problem. Can you relate to any of the problems i just mentioned?

    Comment by Robbie — 14. März 2008 @ 04:43:22

  5. Did this yesterday, quite easy (although i messed up a screw, but thats my fault) It seemed to work afterwards…..didnt encounter any problems yet. For the people who still doubt if you should try this, give it a try. You could send it back to razer but you’ll probbaly get one with the same problem (and you have to pay shipping costs) This small procedure doesnt require more than a screwdriver, and only takes 10 mins)

    Comment by Ghostd0g — 14. März 2008 @ 10:15:56

  6. Hi Robbie,
    that sounds like a very similar problem. You can do two things: either open the case and fix the problem with the screws (and you won’t void any warranty, at least mine didnt have any sort of seal you have to break) or you could put a coin on the Razer logo of the touchpad. This will keep the Razer-key “pressed” which somehow eliminates any key-specific problems. Unfortunately, the coin-fix also renders the touchpad unusable.

    Comment by Steffen — 14. März 2008 @ 10:42:49

  7. Man, getting my new Razer keyboard and mouse made my day. But then I fired up UT3 only to find that keys would get stuck (not physically though) and sometimes keys would stop responding. At one point the entire keyboard stopped working, except for the windows key! Totally ruined my day, and then I found your fix. I was planning on opening it up myself but I highly doubt I would have noticed that screw’s causing the problem. Thanks many times over!

    Comment by Aditya — 15. März 2008 @ 04:11:27

  8. I also wanted to add that I never would have guessed that the touchpad’s bad connection could cause the entire keyboard to go nuts. Maybe I’ll look at the circuitry a little closer some day to try and figure out how that caused the problem. Hopefully this problem won’t come back (all I’ve done to test so far is play UT3… I managed to get through a match with no problems, whereas previously even halfway through the match was lucky).

    Comment by Aditya — 15. März 2008 @ 04:14:09

  9. Forget that keyboard. I tried two times to repair it, but after a few days the problems came back.
    I´m quite shure that this screw can´t be the cause of all the problems.
    Razer support only reccomends to bring it back to store and switch it.
    I´ll get a logitech keyboard. It looks not so nice like the Lycosa does, but it works.
    just my two cents.

    Comment by Mike — 16. März 2008 @ 20:49:01

  10. Hi Mike,
    of course the screw is not the root of the problem, but removing it helps to solve it. The problem for me returned once but has been fine ever since. I’ll just hope the fix is permanent now, although returning the keyboard to the store is still an option for me, in case it bugs out again.

    Comment by Steffen — 16. März 2008 @ 20:57:37

  11. Very interesting guide Steffen, thank you. I deliberate about using it, since my problem is not described here yet. My keys are all working perfectly, it’s just, that oftenly the touchpad won’t work after a cold start of the computer, but would after replugging the keyboard. Did anyone here fix this common problem with Steffens guide?

    And hey, thank you for the tip with the LEDs, good to know that at least this can be fixed easily. :-)

    Comment by Jones — 19. März 2008 @ 14:25:11

  12. […] vor einer Woche Hallo, es handelt sich hierbei in der Tat um einen Hardwarefehler, den man allerdings mit einem Schraubenzieher und ein bisschen Feinhef?hl auch selbst beheben kann. (ohne dass die Garantie erlischt!) ArtAge.de ? Razer Lycosa problems and how to fix them […]

    Pingback by Razer Lycosa - Probleme - Computerforum — 20. März 2008 @ 13:21:48

  13. Update:

    Operation gelungen, Patient lebt. Doch das Problem mit dem Touchpad hat sich dadurch leider nicht verbessert. Na ja, den Versuch war’s wert, und angesichts der Tatsache, dass der Touchpad Stecker bereits 2mm aus dem Sockel war, hätte ich so oder so bald Eure Tastenprobleme bekommen.

    Comment by Jones — 26. März 2008 @ 15:10:26

  14. Alright, end of the story: After bugging out another 2 times, I finally decided that it’s time to return my keyboard and get a different one. Seems like you have to solder the frikkin plug to the board, or else it just loosens again and again. :[

    Comment by Steffen — 27. März 2008 @ 21:01:16

  15. I have the same problem even after removing the screw. but why does replugging the board solve the problem?
    I’ll open the board again and look if i didn’t press the upper circuit board “hard” enough back in. But when it will bug again, i’ll return it and use my old one.

    Comment by Markus — 28. März 2008 @ 11:19:40

  16. Markus:
    You mean replugging the whole keyboard? I don’t know, it seems like a “reset” of the internal software sometimes solves these problems…

    Comment by Steffen — 28. März 2008 @ 15:00:42

  17. I installed the newest driver from razerzone.de and it seems to work. Driverversion is still 1.0 but Firmware is 2.02.
    I still have to make a longtimetest but after nearly have an hour it still works fine.

    Comment by Markus — 28. März 2008 @ 18:48:22

  18. Update:
    I have made a 3 hour test under normal user circumstances. I used the keyboard to chat and surf while watching a movie.
    It is still working.
    With the driver i installed from cd the toupad crashed every few minutes. The updated one seems to work.
    The gaming-test with CS and Guild Wars will come tomorrow.
    The touchpad seems to work with temperature. So it works even without touching it. Perhaps every time you press the pad to hard it chrashes?
    The next time it chrashes i will try to restart only the application without unplugging the board. I hope this will work, because this would be a proof for a softwareproblem. And i think that the main problem lies there.

    Comment by Markus — 28. März 2008 @ 21:59:57

  19. Hmmm, funny thing is, the drivers that are on razerzone.de are the exact same drivers that came with my keyboard. I even tried the ones from the page – made no difference for me. Are you sure it was the software that fixed your problems?

    Comment by Steffen — 29. März 2008 @ 00:11:43

  20. I didn’t change anything else.
    The board chrashed once (1.5 hours before) today, and since then it worked. This is realy strange.
    I don’t know if i should bring it back or wait for a better driver, because i like the feeling of the keys, and i can work without multimediakeys. I can’t use the keys for my DVD-Programm.
    The only thing i need the touchpad for is tochange into gamingmode.^^

    Comment by Markus — 29. März 2008 @ 14:20:44

  21. Well then, if you don’t need the media keys and the bug returns, you can do one simple thing to fix it: put a 1 cent coin on the touchpad-button that looks like the Razer logo. Mediakeys won’t work after that, but everything else should. ;)

    Comment by Steffen — 29. März 2008 @ 15:53:15

  22. The Board is still working (5hours now). I played CS more than two hours.
    So using the board doesn’t cause a crash.^^
    I believe that the drivers aren’t loaded exactly when starting windows, or things like that. If it would be an hardwareproblem it would have come back.

    Comment by Markus — 29. März 2008 @ 18:00:29

  23. Hello,

    Razer does not recommend any customer trying to fix their Lycosa in this way or any other way that is not recommended on our support site. We are sorry to hear that any Lycosa users are having trouble with their keyboards and would be happy to assist them in getting their keyboards to work correctly. If you are having any issues with the Razer Lycosa, please visit our support site at

    http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=tickets&_a=submit

    and we will be sure we get your keyboard up and running for you.

    Thanks for your support of Razer and the Razer Lycosa.

    Razer|Wave

    Comment by Razer|Wave — 1. April 2008 @ 19:00:58

  24. Well, thing is: it’s clearly a hardware fault, so the only way Razer support could help you, would be by telling you to send the keyboard back to them…

    Comment by Steffen — 1. April 2008 @ 19:19:16

  25. Well I have exactly the same problem as Aditya!

    I wrote now sth. to Razer, we will see, wich the answer will be…

    Í dont want to repair the lycosa on my own…

    Comment by Peter — 6. April 2008 @ 18:20:57

  26. Thx!!!

    I own two Lycosas and it works. Thx !!!!!!

    Comment by Neokortex — 7. April 2008 @ 17:24:57

  27. really? it worked to repair it?

    Comment by Peter — 8. April 2008 @ 14:19:52

  28. razer told me to send it back an get a new one… what do you thin i should do?

    Comment by Peter — 8. April 2008 @ 14:23:54

  29. Well, maybe send it back? ^^

    Comment by Steffen — 10. April 2008 @ 01:42:25

  30. hey steffen,

    ich hab mir mal deine anleitung durchgelesen und das auch gemacht, wi du es beschreibst, aber als ich die tastatur dann neu angeschlossen habe, konnte ich nur ca. 2 minuten damit wirklich problemlos schreiben. jetzt ist es wieder so wie vorher: ich halte z.b. die taste a 10 sec. lang gedückt, aber es erscheint nur ein a. genauso bei shift, leertaste, backspace, whatever. manchmal werden von der tastatur auch tastendrücke ignoriert, was das schreiben längerer texte so sehr schwierig macht.

    wäre sehr nett wenn du mir da helfen könntest.
    lg

    Comment by General-0siris — 12. April 2008 @ 19:42:24

  31. gebt den müll einfach zurück… so mach ichs auch und kauft ne logitech!

    Comment by James — 12. April 2008 @ 21:21:29

  32. Ich denke auch, dass ich die Tastatur zurückgeben werde. ich probiers dann noch einmal mit einem neuen Modell, aber wenn die dann auch wieder den selben Fehler hat, dann kommt die G11 her^^

    Comment by General-0siris — 13. April 2008 @ 15:12:00

  33. Was mir grad noch entfallen ist: Sollte ich vielleicht die fehlende Schraube vor dem Umtausch wieder reinschrauben? Ich würd das Ding dann im Saturn abgeben, da hab ich es ja auch gekauft, und ich denke mal, dass die nich nachschauen werden, aber ich wollt einfach nochmal fragen

    Comment by General-0siris — 13. April 2008 @ 15:13:22

  34. Also ich hab die nicht wieder reingeschraubt, im Saturn gucken die noch nicht mal in den Karton, ob da überhaupt die richtige Tastatur drin ist. ;) Ich hab mir dann auch eine G15 geholt.

    Comment by Steffen — 13. April 2008 @ 15:34:39

  35. Cool, ok. Dann tausch ich das Teil morgen um und gugg mal ob es mit nem neueren Modell von der lycosa besser läuft, hat ja bei manchen Leuten geholfen. Wenn nicht, kommt mir die G11 oder G15 ins Haus, wäre aber schade, weil die Lycosa richtig geil ist, bis auf diesen Fehler eben^^

    Comment by General-0siris — 13. April 2008 @ 21:12:32

  36. Also der Umtausch lief bestens, das neue modell funktioniert leider nicht :(
    Ich werd demnächst mal da weiter rumbasteln und vllt. ein wenig löten. falls nix geht, zurück zu saturn und die g11^^ aber eigentlich hätte ich halt lieber die lycosa, alleine schon wegen den tasten :)

    Comment by General-0siris — 16. April 2008 @ 13:32:20

  37. tks its work…

    Comment by Nielsen — 23. April 2008 @ 06:57:36

  38. My Razer Lycosa keyboard works properly in all functions. Except the backlight is obviously darker in the center area than the other two sides. And some keys were not manufactured in good quality since I could see blue light reveal through the edge of these keys. I like it for it’s cool designed exterior, but disappointed for it’s louse quality. After encountered so many problems with this product, I think my Logitech G15 is better than it in all aspects.

    Comment by RusKo — 24. April 2008 @ 13:04:39

  39. Does anyone have problems with this keyboard just wigging out and not working at all? Sometimes I sit down at my computer and some keys output the wrong characters while others will just not work at all. Is this common?

    Comment by Bill Brasky — 28. April 2008 @ 05:34:24

  40. Well, it sounds like the typical bug with the connector…

    Comment by Steffen — 28. April 2008 @ 11:51:06

  41. All the light on my keyboard works, except the touchpad light. There simply ain’t no light in it, sometime it flashes a bit, but then it turns off again. Could this guide possibly fix my problem?

    Comment by Cimmer — 28. April 2008 @ 18:24:31

  42. There is only one plug that connects the touchpad to the rest of the keyboard, so you might as well give it a try. ;)

    Comment by Steffen — 28. April 2008 @ 18:27:18

  43. Works for me. Cheers!

    Comment by goodgravy — 13. Mai 2008 @ 19:54:52

  44. My 1st lycosa worked just fine but the coating on some keys begin to tear off, in a closer look i saw small “blisters” on other keys so i thought it was the cause of that problem, i’ve returned the keyboard to the store and because the serial number was one described as defective in razers support page they replaced it in 2 days, new one seems to be fin in terms of rubber coating, no “blisters” at all BUT the touchpad doesn’t work at all. Since there’s no stock in the store i bought it and replacement could take like 1 month do u think this guide could help me in my problem and i should give it a try?

    Comment by LaGaruga — 23. Mai 2008 @ 15:45:03

  45. Well, if you’re careful then you can’t make it worse, at least. ;) For me, opening the keyboard didn’t void the warranty, so I would always give it a try.

    Comment by Steffen — 24. Mai 2008 @ 15:21:52

  46. luckily i got my keaboard changed, that one worked just fine. Just for your information the upper center screw now comes cover by a fragile white paper circle to avoid doing this, the new lycosa serial nunber is something like MT0811.

    THNX A LOT for this guide and the fast response.

    Comment by LaGaruga — 26. Mai 2008 @ 15:04:21

  47. Unfortunately this trick did not work for me. I removed that damn screw but I still have the same issues form time to time. I am sure I did everything exactly the way it was supposed to be done, I checked several times and I even worhed with the “open” keyboard for a while… unfortunately the lycosa design is just buggy, there is nothing we can do about it. The Razer guys should just develop a fixed keyboard and then replace all the old crappy keyboards. With the money it costs I demand a working keyboard! This time I am really disappointed.

    Comment by Sala Krestu — 31. Mai 2008 @ 22:54:01

  48. It’s a design error… and if you want to fix your board permanently, you have to either solder the touchpad to the main board, or return your keyboard. I heard that Razer released a new version of the Lycosa that doesn’t have these problems anymore…

    Comment by Steffen — 31. Mai 2008 @ 23:49:57

  49. I do not think soldering it will solve anything: from what I was able to undertsand, the problem is not about bad contacts between the parts but it resides in the touchpad itself. The only way to fix it permanently is to replace the mediakeys touchpad.

    Comment by Sala Krestu — 16. Juni 2008 @ 21:25:00

  50. I carefully read this interesting article and I decided to take my chances. Since I used to mod PS2s and X-BOXs I am quite a veteran when it comes to solder somethin. I tried to fix my Lycosa this way, as you can see in these links:

    http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5125/solderfixdescriptionyq5.jpg

    http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1628/solderfixwiresholderbx5.jpg

    I soldered even the light connector, just to be sure. Then I added a piece of aluminium sheet to keep the wires from touching the back of the mediakeys pad.

    For now it works, I just have to cross my fingers and hope it will keep working. We will see… I will update you anyway if something happens.

    Comment by Richard08 — 17. Juni 2008 @ 20:03:00

  51. Looks like a solid fix to me – I hope it stays that way. =)

    Comment by Steffen — 17. Juni 2008 @ 22:18:00

  52. Hi! I had same problem (middle lights so dark I can’t see the keys). Here http://www.razersupport.com/lycosa/lycosa-keyboard.php you will find a specific Razer support for this problem. I wrote to them and in 1 hour they emailed me back. They check the serial number to see if you got the problem and they ship the new keyboard right away! Great support. I will tell you how many days it takes (I’m from Italy)

    Comment by Ena — 19. Juni 2008 @ 19:00:31

  53. Dammit bad news for me: soldering it did not solve the problem, it still occurs! I am out of ideas… I just hope Razer will replace my keyboard at this point!

    Comment by Richard08 — 19. Juni 2008 @ 22:25:20

  54. There is no need to ship our Lycosas back: it looks like the Razer team is replacing every keyboard just after veryfing yours is one of the ~not properly working~ Lycosas. I just got their answer:

    “We have verified that your Lycosa is one of the units affected by the known issues. We apologize for the trouble you have had with the Razer Lycosa and the inconvenience this has caused you. We have made arrangements for a new Lycosa to be sent to your address. ”

    Good for us!

    Comment by Sala Krestu — 20. Juni 2008 @ 12:28:24

  55. Thank you for this guide and hi to everyone..

    I have problems with my lycosa, too.
    It all began with fast switching of light-mode. I wondered, either the touchpad has get wet or something… after several restarts it works…

    Than – in game, some keys (W,A,S,D,Enter, Space, even ESC) first get rapidly ghost-pressed… and after that, the key dosn’t respond at all…

    The best of all error’s is the Touchpad… I’ve running winamp in the background and wonder, why I always hear the same music in shuffle mode… When and how reacts the f*cking Touchpad?

    Well, after I opened the Lycosa and remove the “Screw-of-Doom” and put a penny on the Lycosa-Touchpad-Logo it seemed to work all fine… even the media-keys… I’m looking forward to it, that this will stay so…

    if not…. i will smash my keyboard at the edge of my table… and sell the parts in ebay…

    sry for my english…

    Comment by Systemsoul — 19. Oktober 2008 @ 13:58:46

  56. After 4 months and 12 days from my request, I finally got my replacement! YAY! The shipping and the keyboard were totally covered by Razer and I didn’t even have to ship my old Lycosa back… so now I have 2 of them. I suggest you to ask for the replacement, if you haven’t done it yet.

    Anyway, I hope this keyboard now will work fine or I swear I will break it in half! Bye

    Comment by Sala Krestu — 1. November 2008 @ 13:48:18

  57. Sounds great… now I’m beginning to regret that I returned my keyboard to the store and exchanged it for a Logitech G15… ;(

    Comment by Steffen — 3. November 2008 @ 22:09:27

  58. My problem was I would lose backspace and the odd letter or two. At first unplugging and plugging the USB would fix it, then that didn’t work any more. Driver update didn’t work either. Stumbled on your site and solution and bosh, it works!

    Such an easy fix to do, no soldering required. I fully and safely recommend it to anyone losing key functions with this keyboard.

    Cheers! :)

    Comment by Glen — 7. November 2008 @ 22:37:51

  59. Many thanks :)

    Comment by lilele — 8. November 2008 @ 14:50:03

  60. Hi, I have the same problem as #4. Will this guide solve that as well? I have tried the fix but instead of losing function, the key remains “pressed” ie aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

    Comment by Paxton — 15. Dezember 2008 @ 10:17:06

  61. Hi Steffen – great resource – thanks v much. Beginning to think I’m jinxed. A few of the high-end gadgets I’ve bought recently haven’t worked and have gone back. And here’s another one!! Media key panel seems very dark, certainly has no working light source of it’s own. Others say there is a light so presume mine has flatlined. Half of the media keys were working, then a couple of days ago, the whole panel stopped working. I tried the fix, but it didn’t work for me sadly. Keyboard is going back to the shop on an RMA. For ref, my keyboard is serial MT083… if this is one of the later keyboards, the problems aren’t yet fixed. Mine did have a ‘tamper-proof’ sticker over the centre screw, but it’s easily removed intact with careful use of a sharp blade. I’m so SO tempted to ditch Razer for this dismal experience, never to return. But the keyboard works so well – – when it works. I’ll give the replacement one more shot before it’s back to Logitech (sigh).

    Comment by vertew — 23. Dezember 2008 @ 22:20:03

  62. What a fucking piece of shit this keyboard – first of all you cant read the keys properly and then the technical faulty functionality eg not working properly and that for this kind of money fuck them!

    I ll send it back and they can keep it !

    Comment by Martin — 26. Dezember 2008 @ 11:59:48

  63. Could anyone let me know what is the wire colour order of usb cables comming to pc board? it was accidently extract and I do not know how to conect it back. Unfortunatelly pictures of soldering shows other side of pcb.Many thanks

    Comment by aspider — 14. Mai 2009 @ 21:59:59

  64. this is not tech issue there is no way!! I keep having the same issue, every once in a while a random button doesn’t work. The only way to fix it is to restart windows an even after the restart after some wfile another (different) button stops working. Since I play the game ussualy button “3 or #” and “d” stops working.
    ps: typing this I ha to copy an paste letter “d” !!!!

    Comment by ralf — 12. Juli 2009 @ 00:11:26

  65. For those experiencing dim keys, I found that the reason my keys where dim was because the LED strip had come away from the acrylic sheet that projects its light. the glue must have worn off over time. simply gluing the led strip back was a wonderful fix

    Comment by Bobby — 27. Juli 2009 @ 06:33:33

  66. I give you a big THANK YOU for the Tut.
    All works fine now after keeping out the screw of doomness :P

    Comment by tob1 — 24. September 2009 @ 08:56:02

  67. Thank you for the research on this issue. My problem was actually a “r” key that would stick or work intermittently. The issue was not with the screw mentioned in this article but rather the “keyboard mylar contact sheets”. The screw holes were not cut out sufficiently to allow the sheets to lay flat when it was assembled. I cut out the screw hole sides a bit more to allow the sheets to lay flat. Once this “surgery” was completed my sticking “r” key has gone away and I am actually enjoying the keyboard now. Thanks again for a great article. I think Razer needs to look into some QA issues with their manufacturing facility.

    Comment by catsailor — 27. Oktober 2009 @ 17:49:48

  68. Thank you! I no longer have this problem. My A and S keys and my spacebar would randomly cut out, but no longer do! It’s been 3 days since I’ve had a problem, when before I couldnt go for more than an hour without it failing.

    I also contacted Razer and was able to get a new Lycosa sent out, no questions asked! They have great warranty support. Now I have 2 of these keyboards for the price of 1 + the day of frustration. Worth it!

    Comment by Jeremy — 12. November 2009 @ 04:57:12

  69. Hi, i had a problem with my Lycosa mirror.
    For some lucky reason i noticed Ctrl+alt+q was beeing pressed repeatedly all the time.
    i realised this problem when i was modifing a shortcut hotkeypress did not understand why it wouldnt change away from ctrl+alt+q
    looked up Lycosa problem in google and found this guide. removed the screw of doom.
    Guess what im no longer doomed by that screw!
    backlight seems fine asawell^:) for now^^

    Comment by Samuel — 12. November 2009 @ 06:04:51

  70. I checked the razor site to see if I had one of the affected keyboards, and per the serial #s they listed, my keyboard SHOULD be fine. It was not. Periodically, my d,e,f,s, and t keys would stop working. If i unplugged and plugged the USB back in, all was better. However, I did take my keyboard apart and found an issue. I did not find exactly what is posted on this page; the screw under the circuit board was find. However, the two plastic posts that go through the circuit board and then are secured with a screw were not OK. The one near the plug was not through the circuit board correctly. This caused the plug to be partially pulled out. I resolved this and will see how it works; my guess is it will be fine. Thanks for posting this -Dan

    Comment by Dan — 18. November 2009 @ 15:53:07

  71. Hey thanks for this. My keyboard has been having issues for a long time. But only in the last few months has it become a major annoyance. I didn’t realize until a few weeks ago that their had been a recall. Not sure why Razer didn’t contact its customers (money I am sure). I had one month left on my warranty when I found out. I got in touch with Razer and they sent me out a new one. Then I found out about this site and was able to fix the problem with the original keyboard. So thanks very much.

    Craig`

    Comment by BDX — 8. Dezember 2009 @ 23:28:15

  72. For the people who stubbles into this site wondering whether to buy this keyboard or not because of the issues (as I did, I took the chance anyway) the problems are STILL not fixed on all keyboards. My keyboard has a serial number that starts with MT09 and is thus of the “new generation” that isn’t supposed to have such problems. I’ve sent a mail to Razer about it, and with some luck I might get mine replaced too :)

    Comment by Cellon — 16. Dezember 2009 @ 20:20:10

  73. I just unplugged the KB from the USB port when the keys stopped working, waited a couple seconds, and plugged it back in again. Fixed it for me every time it has happened.

    Comment by Calvin :) — 27. Januar 2010 @ 15:51:10

  74. I just made this mod in hope to fix my touch panels problems!! every day 3 times a day i had to unplug my razer mirror edition model starting with MT09 because the touch panel wouldnt respond… i couldnt switch tracks on itunes, change the back light… it was annoying as hell. i will let u guys know if it worked for me by the end of tomorrow ;)

    Comment by Nelson — 1. Februar 2010 @ 06:11:10

  75. My enter just got stuck while playing now :S and also couldn’t switch song with touch panel but i could still change light settings o.O weird,

    Comment by Nelson — 1. Februar 2010 @ 09:24:14

  76. Ok so, its official, i am still having problems with my touch pad, sometimes it works fully , some times only some functions…. damn

    Comment by Nelson — 2. Februar 2010 @ 19:52:05

  77. I have a problem with my Lycosa windows key which is not detected anything. i have follow this guide once and it works properly after that. In almost 4 months used, the problem still have and i tried to fix it use same method, but it doesnt work at all. is there any solution for this one

    Comment by Shakeel — 14. April 2010 @ 18:25:28

  78. I’ve just got this keyboard, and am plagued by the problems of the WASD keys either suddenly stopping working, or behaving as if one of them is stuck down. This happens about once an hour, and it’s an absolute killer for gaming. Razer claim on their website that this problem is limited to a couple of old batches; it isn’t. And they don’t respond to technical support issues at all. For the money, you’d expect a lot better.

    Comment by ant skelton — 3. Mai 2010 @ 22:55:46

  79. Thank you very much for this guide, since removing the screw, the keyboard seems to work a lot better. I did NOT have one of the keyboards in the serial number intervals that Razer mentioned, but was still having problems with keys that stopped working or hanged. Since making the change yesterday I have not experience either problem.

    Comment by Stefan — 13. Mai 2010 @ 14:11:22

  80. Thank you so much i had these problems with my lycosa i sent them message and they sent me new one and didnt take me the old one so i fixed it and now i have 2 working lycosas :):)

    Comment by Awsome — 17. Juni 2010 @ 19:14:28

  81. I have a Lycosa Mirror MT10 model..probably one of newest models…and..I had those problems too.
    light changing modes on it self, the stuck key problem..

    And there’s now a sticker on one of the screws on the newer lycosas (mirror), a warrenty sticker, but I took my chances and did this guide….and it works now properly…that I’m typing this now without any missing letters is the proof lol.
    normally is would have failed right now but it still works ..and the lights doesnt changes modes on it own THANKS! ..

    Comment by Jeroen_NL — 7. August 2010 @ 15:07:38

  82. So, Razer is still shipping broken keyboards? Good to know… ;)

    Comment by Steffen — 7. August 2010 @ 17:04:20

  83. alright I’m back.. the kb worked fine for..a day.
    and the light problem is gone..but the stuck key problem is still there, only takes a bit longer before happening.

    I’m bringing it back to the store tomorrow and get that new g510 from logitech probably.

    never a razer kb for me anymore…or at least..the lycosa.

    Comment by jeroen.. — 9. August 2010 @ 01:56:30

  84. yeah, I got my board around 2010-07-15 and it is affected too… sometimes keys get stuck or not work, or the mediaplayer starts to switch tracks continuously. Btw MT10 model, lycosa mirror. Not sure yet if I want to try this fix or just get it back to store… Tho it started hapenning after a 1 month of use…

    Comment by dzap — 18. August 2010 @ 18:26:34

  85. Thought I’d add my 2c worth… Purchases a Lycosa Mirror (S/N MT101) which exhibited the “sticking key” and non-responsive key problems. After a couple of emails to Razer getting the normal support crap out of the way (drivers, different PC, etc.) they instructed me to replace the keyboard from place of purchase.
    Swapped the mirror for a standard Lycosa (S/N MT09) – after 1 day, same problem…
    Emailed Razer again – they have NOT offered to send a replacement. Instead they ask that I get a new one AGAIN from place of purchase. Well, that’s not going to happen. I will try this fix and test it over the next couple of days. Will let you all know the results.

    But to anyone who HASN’T purchased this board yet – I strongly suggest you look elsewhere. After getting 2 kb’s from 2 different batches with IDENTICAL problems, I’m really pissed that Razer aren’t offering a replacement be sent. One faulty keyboard? Bad luck. TWO faulty keyboards? They should be jumping through hoops to fix this.

    Comment by Luke — 24. August 2010 @ 06:05:18

  86. […] voorkeur. Ik ging eens wat googelen over de problemen van de Lycosa, ik had een link gevonden en hier de link En toen was het voor mij al helemaal over! Ik zat te twijfelen tussen de G19 of de Roccat maar […]

    Pingback by [REVIEW] Roccat Valo — 25. August 2010 @ 11:34:18

  87. Reporting back that after 1 week since removing the “evil screw of doom” the keyboard has not had any further problems.

    However, Razer hasn’t replied to my email either. I would still suggest people consider another keyboard (even another Razer one if you’re a brand loyalist) over this one.

    Comment by Luke — 30. August 2010 @ 02:00:01

  88. […] every few hours. A couple of months ago I finally researched a bit on the product and found various articles that this was a common problem with the Lycosa. Lycosa's with serials that started at MT0803, […]

    Pingback by Disappointed with Razer and their Lycosa | iCupcake — 6. September 2010 @ 03:25:39

  89. Thank you for your guide.. all fixed (I hope).

    How shameful that Razer is STILL selling this keyboard with the same problem. In my case the E key often wasn’t working along with a few other keys and the backlight seemed random.

    I found that the board seemed very loose when I opened the keyboard up. Thanks again.

    Comment by Andeew — 20. September 2010 @ 09:12:52

  90. FYI – after a month since removing screw, I’ve noticed the following;

    1) No “stuck keys” any more.
    2) Touchpad still behaves erratically (the “previous track” button will randomly act as if repeatedly pushed).
    3) Have had the keyboard backlighting not work on the occasional startup. Same with the entire keyboard.

    I’ve since switched it over to a Logitech Illuminated, and am -very- happy with it. Lesson learned: Razer make mice, not keyboards!

    Comment by Luke — 27. September 2010 @ 02:04:47

  91. Ah well … still not fixed. Do not buy this keyboard, it is just a pain in the backside. Not sure if it is the Win 7 x64 drivers or what. Keys stop working or get stuck. The logitech has been ordered.

    Comment by Andeew — 27. September 2010 @ 06:36:15

  92. I plan on buying this keyboard because I need backlighting illumination for both normal and nightly use, I am well versed with keys in the keyboard so I don’t really mind that the keys are not colored for mid-day use. What bothers me is the constant problems in quality this brand keeps having. I bought a Razer Diamondback 3G last year and while it is responsive the drivers work, and feedback seem fine, the problem seems to be the overall quality of the physical product. What is sad to me is that Logitech is no longer the best brand because their designs for keyboard, and mice have taken a tumble for the worse over the last 10 years and we have companies like Razer who should be capitalizing on being a brand-alternative to Logitech and focusing less on advertising to gamers and more on quality. I say this because that mouse I had let’s just say, the quality of the clicks was just bad even after a while, and feel was crappy. I have not tried their other products, but the main products they offer, keyboards, and mice seem to be the worst, they should just focus more on T-shirts, mousepads and headsets for that matter. It tells me they need to revisit their engineers and hire new or fire the ones they have and get better japanese – grade plastics less shine. Gamers dont want gimicks they want results and to trust the brandname every time they consider purchasing. I used to be the one saying that Razer would be the end-all-be all, beware of Razer it’s a sketchy company and the problems with them don’t ever seem to stop. I would consider buying their keyboards, maybe a new mouse likely a mousepad because it’s a sexy young brand for gamers, but it’s not necesarily a great brand end-product. Oh and their drivers look so low-class, step it up a notch too the GUI blows.

    Comment by Bobby Light — 15. Oktober 2010 @ 10:52:15

  93. Best way to help ease these problems is to not support Razer and secondly file a class-lawsuit against said brand for their repeated lazyness concerning their products… there seems to be no end to Razer’s shoddyness they just have to get their act together or one day people will stop responding to the marketing they have and go to Saitek, or back to Logitech or Microsoft or random brands that make better products. I think a class action lawsuit is in order for them, because the funds they have gained haven’t been re-invested into the designing process of these crappy products… don’t SUPPORT RAZER!

    Comment by Bobby Light — 15. Oktober 2010 @ 10:56:42

  94. DUDE YOU ARE A LIFESAVER!!!!!!!THANK YOU YOU ARE A EFING GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!IT WORKED

    Comment by master_raresh — 3. November 2010 @ 23:16:29

  95. thanks so much for that, my problem was letter “p” didnt work as well as a delete button and i had a problems with ctrl + c, and crtl + v problems, now everything is great thanks so much again, u saved my life

    Comment by michal — 4. November 2010 @ 06:51:46

  96. I tried it about 3 hours ago.
    It really works, i cant even believe it.
    Fucking screw destroys the whole keyboard. Thats ridicilous.
    Nevermind, i love all razer products, except the lycosa. But i now like it again ; )

    Comment by Marco — 16. November 2010 @ 03:51:15

  97. Thank you so much, you’re my hero! :P
    This problem with the lycosa was driving me crazy but i followed your guide step by step and now it works just great!
    Shame on Razer though for such a stupid issue!
    Thanks man!

    Comment by Davide — 19. November 2010 @ 21:49:17

  98. now my keyboard can type all words .. but no light already .. how ?

    Comment by shawn — 2. Dezember 2010 @ 05:48:03

  99. THANK YOU!
    this is the second keyboard ive been though in as many days, first was a logitech G19 and it crashed and killed my pc, then when this one dident work i was so sad, then it worked, thanks to your guide.
    THANK YOU!

    Comment by Andrew — 31. Dezember 2010 @ 07:24:29

  100. 1000 000 000 times thank you. Ur tha man!

    Comment by Royer — 12. Januar 2011 @ 01:40:06

  101. Wonderful, fixed the problem of the Razer lycosa not responding to pressing certain buttons.

    Just forgot to remove one of the screws on the back (under a little white sticker) and then it was pretty easy.

    looks pretty sweet without the handrest – so much more desk room!

    Comment by Jason — 20. Februar 2011 @ 14:59:05

  102. Yeah I decided to take the plunge and buy one. Well guess what it don’t work right. This the second keyboard from a totally different supplier. Both MT10 serials. First one arrives scratched and the keyboard works but the touchpad is totally screwed. Second one arrives and looks fine, touchpad works fine but letters keep stopping working. Esp the “c” “t” and “return” keys. Oh and sometimes the skip track touchpad button will activate too. Took it apart and removed the screw and still having problems. I read somewhere it could be usb current. Apparently on another site a guy used a multimeter and saw it draws more than usb spec so using a overspec usb hub might work but then i also heard running through a hub causes problems lol. Ive messaged razer with my fault and hopefully il hear something back soon. I have a real love hate affair with razor atm. i find myself searching for other illuminated keyboards that look just as cool and are seemingly as functional. None compare, its just so heartbreaking to look at this thing and know its useless. Wish I was good enough to write my own drivers. Maybe if someone is reading this and has the knowledge they could start the ball rolling. The keyboard must be generating outputs and the driver must be responding so perhaps we can watch for the fault happening and fix it somehow. I dunno. Damn just so annoying. I dare not play a game online if keys stop responding il get creamed.

    Comment by Ace — 13. März 2011 @ 23:53:27

  103. This worked great, I have the MT1 S/N too. my keys didn’t come back right away but I went into the razer config and played with it. Now i have a fully functional keyboard. Thanks for the post.

    Comment by abuseJUNKEY — 21. März 2011 @ 00:59:34

  104. Thank you so much m8! Works like a Charm!

    Comment by Jaky — 3. April 2011 @ 18:24:05

  105. MT09 serial keyboard still with this problem, I can’t believe nearly 4 years on they still haven’t fixed it properly. I’m going to write a nasty letter.

    Cheers heaps for the post.

    Comment by Aaron — 15. April 2011 @ 07:29:37

  106. Thanks, for this great guide.

    Comment by Pinhead — 8. Mai 2011 @ 16:05:06

  107. Thank you so much for this! Followed your steps on an MT10 Lycosa, and I have all of my keys working again! I couldn’t use like 7 of my alphabet keys. I was having to complete text using the Windows On-Screen Keyboard…

    Comment by Joshua — 8. Mai 2011 @ 17:50:52

  108. […] Da die Lycosa allerdings eine Folientastatur mit Silikon Pressmatte (genau wie die Blöd Markt Billigteile für 5 €) zu haben scheint, wenn ich das auf dieser Seite auf diesem Bild und diesem Bild richtig sehe, wird es mit einem Tastentausch nicht klappen … […]

    Pingback by Maus/Tastatur Ersatz Tasten kaufen? — 27. Juni 2011 @ 06:38:48

  109. Thanks for this man! did it few hours ago and still no problems… I was really hopeless.

    Comment by unev — 9. Juli 2011 @ 04:18:46

  110. Very iportant!!! This fix worked but only for one week. I dissasembled the keyboard again and got rid of the second screw above the bad one. Now the left side of the touchpad is 1mm down compared to the right but now it seems to work, i also bended the pins for a pressured contact.

    Comment by Andreiu — 27. Februar 2012 @ 11:45:04

  111. Man, I owe you. Have just followed your tutorial and just plugged the keyboard in (a Lycosa Mirror Special Edition). So far the keys that were not working are OK. I wasn’t able to use 6 or 7 keys before this…
    Thanks a lot dude!

    Comment by Juan — 7. März 2012 @ 21:59:19

  112. Thank you for the great guide!

    My numberpad 7 works again!

    Back to Civ. :)

    Comment by Lou — 8. April 2012 @ 02:55:13

  113. I have just bought a brand new Lycosa, serial number MT11 , and it has all the same problems. Keys get stuck (not mechanical), like pressing the F key will write ‘GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG…” endlessly, in particular if i have used the touchpad just before to light the keys, or used the backspace key. Other times, the keyboard just get nuts and open all kind of windows and prompts when i try to type anytihing. Rebooting and pluging another cheap USB keyboard is the only way to get my computer back, when that happens. I re-installed the 3.0.2 driver many times, but did not fixed the problem.

    I tried it on my other computer. On this one, i get non stop Windows Media pop up windows if i happen to use the touch pad only once.Only fix is to reboot and use another keyboard. I did not test any further, and put back the keyboard in its box.

    How come issues known since 2008 are still affecting 2012 new untis? What kind of compagny is that? Because it is the only gamer keyboard that has backlighted keys and is not too wide is no reason not to fix the problems that unit has. Just like a good looking girl, but just so annoying because of her problematic behaviors…but she do absolutely nothing to change, because she.s pretty and think you will stay anyway…

    I would have no problem to get another Lycosa from store, but i think i will change brand. Any idea for a macro-programmable keyboard that has the same width as regular usb keyboard?

    razer cult….no, thanks.

    Comment by GTX — 15. April 2012 @ 20:11:35

  114. Well, I switched to a Logitech G15 and am still using it today. :) But as someone else already pointed out, you can probably send in your faulty keyboard and get a new one that should work.

    Comment by Steffen — 15. April 2012 @ 20:44:45

  115. Well, I cannot trut anymore this Razer company. They sure know by now what is the exact proportion of these Lycosa that are dysfunctionnal, and they continue to produce them without fixing the issue. If, let us say, there is 1 in 1000 units that is not working properly, that is already way too much. Look on Tom’s harware website, or else, and you find tons of cases like those written here. It is clearly not acceptable. And, many casees where the replacing Kycosa is as dysfunctionnal as the previous one. Noe way, i do not want another Lycosa or any other Razer keyboard, and wll not buy anything from them anymore.

    Since i wrote my previous mote, I have decided to change this crappy Lycosa for a Logitech G110. Same price range, backlighted, 12 programmable keys, reliable, and only about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider. :-)

    Comment by GTX — 16. April 2012 @ 02:19:52

  116. Thank you very much, Fixed my keyboard

    Comment by HunterFai — 24. September 2012 @ 15:54:38

  117. […] every few hours. A couple of months ago I finally researched a bit on the product and found various articles that this was a common problem with the Lycosa. Lycosa’s with serials that started at MT0803, […]

    Pingback by Disappointed with Razer and their Lycosa - Jordan Riane — 6. Februar 2013 @ 08:47:01

  118. gret fix, till now everithing works great. you saved my keyboard.

    Comment by Bogdan — 21. April 2013 @ 13:22:01

  119. Awesome! Just awesome! Thank you very much for this! My board was total chaos, it lived its own life for a while, stuff like when I pressed ‘W’ it wrote the whole alphabet and opening windows and programs. I was about to lit it on fire and throw it out the window, but you saved it! Thanks!

    Comment by Phaxie — 29. April 2013 @ 20:01:27

  120. I had an MT08 lycosa back around 2008 that had the touch pad issue and need to be replugged, then the touchpad permately became unresponive. Removing the screw on this MT08 model wasnt effective but it might be the pins that are the issue making contact.

    I bought a new lycosa MT12 version and the touch pad works but it will glitch out causing the leds to change modes by itsef and then cause the keyboard to freeze, replugging it fixes it till it decides to glitch out.

    I bough another one just for comparisions reasons to ill see if this other one still has issues lol.

    Comment by Jay — 10. Mai 2013 @ 09:20:34

  121. This is an update to my previous response. I recieved my other MT12 Lycosa which works perfectly out of the box compared to my other MT12 Lycosa which glitches out every hour or so.
    ———————————————————–
    I dedcided to open up the problematic MT12 Lycosa and the touch pad was literlty lifted of the stands making bad contact, i smply pushed the touch pad down and it works, i didnt remove the scew for testing reasons but removing the screw anyway is recommended. Oh ya lettering printed on all the keys on one of the Lycosas was slightly of centered, major quality control issues with Razer, the design isnt the problem its legit the quality control lol.

    Comment by Jay — 15. Mai 2013 @ 03:37:17

  122. I have an MT09 lycosa that was sitting in a box collecting dust for the last two years. It had repeating key problems and contributed to a loss at a gaming competition. For whatever reason, i didn’t break it in half. Anyway, I dug it out and decided to look around for fixes which lead me to this site. As i was disassembling the keyboard, i noticed nearly every screw was overly tightened. The LED panel thing was actually bent from screws near the touch-media controls. So, i took the opportunity to clean everything inside the keyboard using paper towls and Windex, including both sides of each of the ‘mylar’ sheets. there was like 4 of the plasticy things and i cleaned both sides; I noticed some burns around the WASD LEDs, but they still work just fine. Also I noticed some burned looking circuits leading away from the keys that repeated; the ‘C’ key being the main culprit. I cleaned some of that away with Windex, too. When I put it all back together, I was extremely careful tightening all the screws, including the ‘screw of doom’. I am not of the opinion that removing that particular screw helps so much as reseating EVERY screw does. As i was rescrewing everything, i would lightly press in the keys behind the screw so i could feel the pressure if it was too tight. I did this for both the LED board AND the outer shell screws. Since I’ve done this, I have yet to have any repeating keys. The keyboard has been in use for 24 hours and with luck, the problem may have gone away entirely for me. In the past, I remember I also had the problem of keys stop responding entirely until the whole keyboard stopped working until i replugged the USB connector into the port. As I said, so far I’ve not had any problems and i spent about an hour retyping ‘the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog’ over and over to try and trigger the problems. Looks like this may have fixed the keyboard, so far. Thanks for the heads-up. It’d be a great keyboard, if not for Razer’s shoddy QA team. Cheers.

    Comment by adrian — 10. Oktober 2013 @ 10:39:14

  123. Yes it is work wiyj my Lycosa.Easy job,it is not necessary to peel the silver tape.

    Thanks.

    Comment by glaros — 7. November 2013 @ 23:50:29

  124. Hey bros, I have a Razer Lycosa Mirror, and for aproximately 4 months, I have been facing issues with this keyboard. My F key would not work, and basically I can’t use it, Ive tried banging on it, pluging it in and out, and bascially, nothing works. Until I read this guide, and my god, it works, like instantly. Thank you so much. Do keep track of your screws, Some have a screw well that requires either you to flip it to get it out or have a magnetic scredriver, get it out, I lost one. And still looking for it. Cheers again bro, thanks!

    Comment by Isaac — 4. Mai 2014 @ 06:19:14


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